Tom Sietsemas Review of Q by Peter Chang
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Peter Chang ups the Chinese ante in Bethesda with Q
A dish called Joyful Pyramid Dumplings — a combination of shrimp, salmon, chicken and vegetable dumplings — is function of an alluring dim sum spread at Peter Chang's newest restaurant, Q. (Dayna Smith/For The Washington Mail)
With the opening of the viii,000-foursquare-foot Q past Peter Chang in a glass-wrapped function building in Bethesda, fans of the peripatetic chef now have 10 places in the Mid-Atlantic to explore Chang's personal style of Chinese cooking.
Admirers of the nutrient created by the quondam chef of the Chinese Embassy are streaming in with high hopes, fanned in office by a name intended to set up the $2 million, 200-seat project apart from the collection.
[The 2017 Spring Dining Guide]
Q stands for qijian, which refers to "flagship" or "home" in Standard mandarin, says Gen Lee, the chef'due south consultant.
As such, there await a host of new things to eat: Peking duck, coral fish, dim sum on weekends — "a trivial more of everything," says Lee, who gave Chang this advice: "Don't stay backside the wok anymore." Pay attention to plates going out into the dining room, in other words. Supporting the cause in the kitchen are nearly 20 cooks, mostly Chinese, says Lee.
Peking duck is carved in the kitchen and served equally an appetizer with a sweetness garlic sauce. (Dayna Smith/For The Washington Mail service)
Szechuan double-cooked pork belly. (Dayna Smith/For The Washington Post)
That Peking duck, served equally an appetizer, could employ some intervention by Chang. Carved in the kitchen, the fowl, served with a sweet garlic sauce, has twice arrived at my table tepid, and 1 fourth dimension on the dry side.
[At Taqueria del Barrio, empanadas are one of the few flavorful hits]
More of a show is the aforementioned coral fish: scored snapper, dipped in cornstarch batter, deep-fried and displayed on a puddle of red sauce that strikes a dainty balance between sweet and sassy. (Flick Cheetos springing out from a fish carcass.) The crunchy ribbons taste mostly of batter, but that doesn't finish pals and me from mindlessly denuding the sculpture. Spying the dish on our tabular array, a hostess tells us Chang practiced scoring on newspapers back in his cooking school days, real fish being too expensive.
"Vegetable box" looks similar thin slices of meatloaf with gravy. In reality, it's one of my favorite meat-free dishes: kerchiefs of pan-fried, steamed tofu skin wrapped around minced water chestnuts, carrots and more and finished with a sauce teased from mushrooms. A frame of crisp bok choy lends the sepia plate some welcome shade.
Peter Chang, preparing coral snapper, has nearly twenty cooks — most of them Chinese — in the kitchen at Q. (Dayna Smith/For The Washington Post)
The dim sum I've dispatched makes me want to book more than time at Q on weekends. The pearly shrimp dumplings and the juicy, roe-topped pork shumai prove best-in-class, equally does the glossy steam bun stuffed with slightly sugariness bits of chicken. See-through vegetable dumplings, staged on a pandan leaf, pick up heat from their spicy garlic sauce.
Some of the nutrient volition be familiar to Changians. I, for one, am happy to circular out fresh ideas here with, say, tried and true dry fried eggplant or shaved double-cooked pork spiked with hot chili paste.
Coral snapper is a new dish from Peter Chang that involves cutting the fish in tendrils that stay attached to the skin before wink frying and dousing the fish in a red sauce that represents the Coral Sea. (Dayna Smith/For The Washington Post)
Q is the chef'due south largest and most stylish dining room nonetheless. Greenish, the color of life, radiates from menus and booths alike, while the perimeters of the space are dressed up with light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation-cutting wall accents. Lite boxes the size of elevators hang from the ceiling; private rooms should take naught problem finding parties to animate them.
[At Del Campo, a reimagined bout of South America, noodles included]
Given Chang's runway record, I effigy fourth dimension will smooth some wrinkles, one of which should be easy to erase.
Would someone — anyone — please selection up the phone when customers telephone call?
4500 E-West Highway, Bethesda. 240-800-3772. qbypeterchang.com. Dinner entrees, $16 to $28.
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Source: https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/peter-chang-ups-the-chinese-ante-in-bethesda-with-q/2017/05/25/9dbbe4bc-3ff5-11e7-9869-bac8b446820a_story.html
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